Wednesday, July 18, 2012
If daytime in Positano is all about the beach, sunset is all about the passagiata. Be forewarned: a Positano passagiata is all about the steps. Up and down, and round about, this is no easy leisurely stroll. Positano is located in a ravine that snakes its way to the sea, with the houses and shops stacked one on top of each other and connected by tiny alleys and steep staircases.
But that’s actually ok with me. Because I think it sort of balances out the beach experience. Since the beaches are small and pebbly, you don’t end up taking long walks during the day. So come night time, when things cool down, I actually looked forward to a bit of a work out while poking in and out of shops on our way to dinner. (Coach G. are you happy now? It's not all cocktails and lounging)
But of course dinner is the point of this blog post.
Although Gillian had a short list of places to eat in town, I turned instead to my friends the Sersales for advice. The Sersales are the family that owns one of the swankiest hotels in town - the Sireneuse - and Marina is the creator of some of my favorite scents including the best selling Eau d'Italie.
Neither Giulia nor Marina were in town to meet us for a drink, but they did steer us to Bar Bruno for dinner. “Don’t be put off by the road side location. It’s fabulous food, and you’ll be glad you went.”
And in fact, Bar Bruno straddles the main road leading out of town. This means that it’s quite a trek to make it up the hill. But it also means it has drop dead views of the bay. As the sun sets, things darken and the town begins to sparkle.
While the table side views would have been enough to justify a meal here, the food lived up to the setting.
As the staff dodged traffic running from the kitchen to the tables scattered along the side walk across the street, we looked over the menu. Fish, of course. So we all ordered variations of home made pasta with seafood. Sophie and I settled on mixed seafood, which was full of mussels, clams and shrimp with just enough fresh tomatoes and pepperoncino to spice it up. Gillian was more daring and ordered pasta with fresh anchovies and tons of wild fennel. Heaven.
The portions were huge, and we had actually had had a pretty big lunch, so we skipped secondi and went straight for dessert. I couldn’t resist delizie al limone. This is the kind of thing I would only order in Positano, where lemons are literally falling off the trees. A mound of soft, lemon-soaked sponge cake, blanketed in more lemony cream. Yummy.
Gillian's desert was the winner I think. Pear and ricotta magically merged with a few sheets of crisp pastry and a drizzle of caramel.
After finishing our wine, and the obligatory glasses of limoncello, we were ready for our hike home.
Thank god this time the steps were leading down.
Via Cristoforo Colombo 83