Tuesday, July 30, 2013
I recently ate at one of the most oddly located good restaurant in Venice. No, it’s not on some hidden alleyway next to a small canal like most of the other great restaurants. Instead, it’s located on the ground floor of a 3 star pensione on one of the most touristy stretches of the super touristy Riva degli Schiavoni.
But Luca Fullin, whose family runs the Pensione, has decided to turn the restaurant into one of the best in Venice. Focusing his attention on fresh local produce the menu features many ingredients from Slow Food’s Ark of Taste. The dishes are straightforward, and prepared simply to highlight the incredible attention to quality
During a recent visit we started with something that looked extremely simple, but was brilliant. The best anchovies imaginable, served two ways. Simply in olive oil and tossed in spicy hot sauce. In between the two a slab of butter and thin crispy slices of toasted bread.
The rest of the dinner was incredibly fresh fish, prepared to bring out the best qualities. Sardines were butterflied, breaded and fried, with a side dish of spicy sauce. Gamberi rossi - the freshest I’ve ever had - were served raw and nearly crawled off the plate.
The spaghetti with bottarga was a combination of chewy al dente spaghetti, with salty bottarga and the crunch of fresh bread crumbs. And finally grilled eel, which I’d never had before, was rich and moist, with the fatty skin crisp, salty and crunchy.
Since Luca's main passion is wine, the list is full of surprises that you won't find elsewhere in town. Lots of small producers, including natural and biodymanic wines.
I get so used to ending descriptions of Venetian restaurants with the words "hard to find, but worth it." With its neon sign blaring from the facade of the hotel, the Wildner can't be missed. Easy to find and good food? That's a rare one in Venice.
Riva degli Schiavoni
Daily, lunch & dinner.
For more on dining in Venice download my app EAT VENICE, available on iTunes and for Android on Googleplay.
Posted by Elizabeth Minchilli at 7:30 AM