Last week I spent 36 hours in Naples with a friend. While we ate our weight in pizza (that was the point of this ‘research’ trip) we also managed to snack in between. While you’ll have to wait until my next book, Eating Italy, comes out for the pizza details, I’m happy to share some of my favorite snacks now.
By the way, none of this is new. Or I should say, it was new to me, but has been written about elsewhere. But I thought it would be a handy list to have in Naples just in case, you know, you get hungry between pizzas.
This place is better known as a pizzeria. But it’s also a friggitoria, selling freshly fried things. One of those things is a frittatina, or a fried hockey puck shaped ball of pasta. I’m not sure how they do it, but it’s soft and tender and moist in the inside and crispy crackling on the outside. The pasta is thick strands of buccatini with egg holding it together with chunks of pork and the odd pea. Best. Snack. Ever. Via dei Tribunale 94
Coffee in Naples is just better. People say it’s the water. Or the way the coffee is still pulled in old fashioned coffee machines. Whatever the reason it’s often so good it doesn’t even need sugar, much less milk. But even so….the owners of Il Bar del Vero Professore have seen fit to improve upon the simple espresso. Here the Nocciolato is a dark black shot that is mixed in a glass with crema di caffe (whipped coffee and sugar) and a hazelnut chocolate mixture. If it sounds sweet, it is. It is also just about the most delicious treat you can imagine. Also? If you’re coming off a carbohydrate induced pizza crash, it’s the perfect pick me up. Via Toledo 262, Naples
There are many baba’s in Naples, but Scarturcchio, located right on Via dei Tribunale, is not only convenient as you’re lurching from one pizza fritta to the next, it’s also the real thing. Although they offer mini baba’s, about as big as an espresso cup, make sure you order the normal sized one. Both Sam and I agreed, they are just better. Piazza S. Domenico Maggiore 19
Located in a grimy back alley just meters away from the central train station, this is the place to go for your last sfogliatelle fix before you leave town. The flaky, ricotta- stuffed, pastries are served piping hot. This means that since you have to wait for the batches to come out of the oven, there is almost always a line. That’s ok. It moves pretty fast. Take a number, go to the cashier and pay, and then wait. You’ll want to eat one right away, powdered sugar on your shirt and whatever else you’re wearing be damned. And if you know what’s good for you, you’ll order another half dozen to take back home with you. They come wrapped in a cute, ribbon-bedecked package, and the contents will ensure those back home will love you very much. Vico Ferrovia 1-4, Naples , Closed Mondays.
For more information on dining in Italy download my app, EAT ITALY. EAT ITALY is a free app, and contains guides to Venice, Milan, Rome, Florence, Torino and Puglia (and an ever expanding list of regions and cities) available as in-app purchases for both iPhone and iPad. Coming in 2018 for free: Emilia Romagna, Campania (including Naples), and more.